Metronomes are an essential tool for musicians. Playing in time is one of the fundamental skills necessary to be successful in performing almost any style of music, let alone getting called to perform with others.
To practice this, musicians often rely on metronomes to provide a steady pulse to practice to, and illuminate their mistakes. Because of this, metronomes are sometimes referred to as one of the great equalizers in the field of music.
Metronomes function by making a noise at a steady rate, which is set by the user. For example, if practicing a piece performed at 140 bpm (beats per minute), the user would set their metronome to that pace and attempt to perform the passage at that pace. Depending on what needs to be addressed and the user’s goal, they may slow or speed up the metronome.
Conventional metronomes you may have seen on a relative’s piano required a mainspring to be wound, and a counterweight would be used to adjust the tempo. More modern ones are digital devices that are pocket-sized and easily fit in instrument cases. With that, there are great apps for smartphones today that are powerful metronomes with extensive tools that aid musicians in their practice routines.
For watch enthusiasts, there are some overlaps between watches and metronome devices. Patek Philippe made a metronome pocket watch around 1880. Cadenzia Palmer also made one that was much more mass-market, and examples can still be found today. However, to the best of my knowledge and research, there has not been an analog display wrist-worn metronome watch until the Seiko Metronome watches released in 2022.
About Seiko Metronome Watches
Seiko Watch Company actually does not produce these watches. Seiko Instruments is responsible for the manufacturing of the Seiko Metronome watches, along with a myriad of technology products. Seiko Instruments has a long history of making metronomes, including conventional mechanical metronomes.
For the watchmaking component, one may think that Seiko Instruments may be out of bounds making a watch and that they may rely on Seiko Timepieces for that portion. While there probably is some overlap, Seiko Instruments makes clocks in various sizes and with numerous functions, meaning there is plenty of know-how within Seiko Instruments to pull off this impressive watch.
The Seiko Metronome watches are obviously a unique proposition in the watch world, given the quirky set of complications. For musicians, they propose a handy set of tools to be worn on the wrist. Punctuality for rehearsals and concert call times is essential.
A metronome, as already described, is a valuable practice tool. Given its ability to mark tempos from 40 bpm to 304 bpm, it allows for a wide variety of practice speeds, in addition to noting smaller note values at slower tempos.
For example, you could set the metronome at 240 bpm to mark eight notes and 120 bpm. There is also a tuning pitch function, sounding an audible pitch that can be set to A or Bb. You can also adjust the pitch of the A to 440 Hz, 442 Hz, or 443 Hz.
In-Depth Guide to Seiko Metronome Watches
To cover the more conventional aspects of the Seiko Metronome watches, here are the technical aspects of these unique timepieces.
Case Dimensions
The Seiko Metronome watches measure 36.5mm wide, 39mm lug-to-lug, 10mm thick, and have 18mm lugs. The compact dimensions make them suitable for a wide audience and a number of situations.
With the design being mostly the dial, it will fill space on the wrist more so than the case dimensions may suggest. The case is rated for daily-use water resistance, which means it can only handle daily hand washing and being caught in a rain storm while on the wrist.
Model Variations
There are two main dial designs split between two lines: the standard line and the casual line. The standard line has more markings for the metronome, offering more accurate measurements of tempos. The casual line has more colorful dials and fewer metronome markings. Below are the various models separated by product lines.
Standard Line
SMW002A: White dial, rose gold case, white strap
SMW005A: Turquoise dial, gold case, beige strap
SMW006A: White dial, steel case, black strap
SMW003A: Silver dial, gold case, brown strap
SMW004A: Blue dial, black case, blue strap
SMW001A: Black dial, gold case, brown strap
Casual Line
SMW004B: White and blue dial, steel case, blue strap
SMW001B: White and black dial, steel case, black strap
SMW002B: Pink and white dial, gold case, white strap
SMW003B: Purple and white dial, gold case, white strap
All of the various models come with calf leather straps. There are also special editions with different straps to change the overall look and formality of the watch.
Operation
With the various functions of this watch, it is likely best to look at the owner’s manual to fully understand how to utilize the watch. That being said, here is a brief overview of how to operate the various functions. The pusher at the lower left side of the watch (8 o’clock) is the function button.
Each press cycles between the different functions. Assuming one is starting in the time-telling mode, a single press puts the watch into metronome mode. Both hands will move to 12 o’clock, and the minute hand will start oscillating back and forth to indicate the desired tempo.
The hour hand will move to the indicated tempo. The upper left pusher (10 o’clock) controls the audible click for the metronome, and the pushers on the right-hand side of the case (2 o’clock and 4 o’clock) control the tempo.
The next mode is the pitch mode, with the two pushers on the right-hand side of the case used to cycle through the different pitches.
To set the time, a long press on the 10 o’clock pusher starts the time setting mode, with the two pushers on the right side of the case used to adjust the time. Another press of the 10 o’clock pusher sets the time, and the watch will begin to run.
Movement
Inside the Seiko Metronome watch is the quartz caliber PA50, which runs on a standard CR 2016 battery that is rated for 2 years. The movement is rated to an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds a month.
On the Seiko Instrument Japan website, there is a brief explanation of the two specially designed motors for the hands, allowing them to move in both directions for the metronome functions. It is clear that some clever engineering was involved in creating this watch.
Seiko Metronome Watches Pricing & Availability
Even though the Seiko Metronome Watches have proven popular amongst watch enthusiasts, their availability is limited to the Japanese market. Platforms such as eBay will facilitate global powers being in touch with Japanese dealers, but these platforms may charge a premium above the 26,400 JPY retail price (about 180 USD at the time of writing).
In addition to the limited market availability, they seem to sell out quite quickly, but with the promise of more being available. With patience, securing a Seiko Metronome Watch should not be too difficult.
Should You Buy a Seiko Metronome Watch?
As with almost any watch, if it is affordable and interesting, there is no reason why someone should not buy one! With its fun design and complications, it will likely provide some levity to one’s watch collection.
For musicians who are also watch enthusiasts, a Seiko Metronome Watch will probably be a frequently worn and used watch in their collection. While apps may be more immediately useful, watch enthusiasts know that there is something charming about a more analog wrist-worn experience.
Conclusion
It is always exciting when a watch company releases a unique product, and Seiko Instruments definitely did so here. While its intended use is only immediately practical to a relatively small audience, watch enthusiasts, in general, will likely enjoy interacting with the metronome function.
Seiko Instruments did a great job of designing an attractive watch while incorporating the indications needed for the metronome and tuner functions. If one is willing to do the extra leg work of locating one, the affordable price makes them attainable to a wide audience.
To most modern watch collectors, Grand Seiko has become a household name. Operating as the high-end arm of Seiko’s many brands, Grand Seiko is well known for making high-quality watches with remarkable movement and case finishing.
Additionally, their Spring Drive technology provides the old-world charm of mechanical watchmaking with the benefits of higher accuracy of quartz technology. While Credor operates at a higher price tier than Grand Seiko, there is another high-end brand in the Seiko stable below Grand Seiko: King Seiko.
About King Seiko Watches
King Seiko was launched alongside Grand Seiko in the 1960s. Grand Seiko was founded in the Nagano Prefecture and was always intended to be the best of what the Seiko brand could offer.
King Seiko was founded in Kameido, Tokyo, and was intended to create high-quality and accurate timepieces with more mass market intentions. With that, given both brand’s desire for quality, advances made in movement and case technology were shared by both brands, allowing them to mutually benefit and flourish.
The mechanical side of Daini Seikosha’s factory (where King Seikos were made) was closed in the 1970s due to the rise of quartz watches. With that, there was no need for two high-end mechanical watch brands. Grand Seiko even went into developing high-end, high-accuracy quartz watches in addition to their existing mechanical watches.
It was not until some limited editions in 2021 and a full permanent collection in 2022 that the King Seiko brand became part of the Seiko catalog once again.
About Grand Seiko Watches
Also introduced in the 1960s, Grand Seiko’s factory was focused on the Nagano Prefecture. With the aim of creating the best timepieces possible, the positive reputation of Grand Seiko watches grew quickly.
The Self-Dater model was produced in 1964 and aimed to provide a suitable daily companion that looked great with everything from daily attire to formal wear. Early developments focused on water resistance, power reserve, and accuracy.
Through the 1970s, they continued to develop high-beat and automatic winding movements, continuing the quest for accuracy and everyday usability.
Where King Seiko left off, Grand Seiko continued onwards, releasing their first quartz-powered watch in 1988, which had a rated accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year! With quartz being the preferred time-keeping technology of the market at that time, Grand Seiko continued to develop quartz technology.
When mechanical watches started to come back into favor with collectors in the 1990s, Grand Seiko sought to create their interpretation of the ideal daily timepiece. Offering a newly designed automatic movement, their 9S5 series was released in 1998.
Grand Seiko continued developing mechanical watch technology by offering longer power reserves, complications, and increased accuracy. 2004 saw the release of the first Spring Drive caliber, combining both mechanical and quartz technologies.
To this day, Grand Seiko continues to develop new movements and watches, reinforcing the original vision of creating the best timepieces possible.
King Seiko vs Grand Seiko: Which Is The Right One For You?
If you’re looking at vintage examples from the 1960s onwards, picking between the two is more of a matter of personal preference than one being better than the other.
While some Grand Seiko models are definitely more high-end than some King Seiko models, the accuracy and reliability of vintage pieces are always more variable than modern pieces from well-respected brands.
When it comes to modern examples, it really is a matter of preference and budget. King Seiko’s current offerings seem to focus on offering a high-quality case, bracelet, and dial finishing but using the 6R series of mechanical movements from Seiko, which can be seen in watches costing less than the King Seiko’s lower price limit.
For not much more money, the entry-level quartz-powered offerings from Grand Seiko could be considered. While still high-quality watchmaking, picking a quartz watch versus a mechanical watch is a matter of preference as opposed to one being better than the other.
To get into Grand Seiko mechanical and Spring Drive offerings, the cost will be more than even the most expensive King Seiko currently offered (the SJE095 at $3,829). The Grand Seiko SBGR257 retails for $4,100. The few hundred dollars difference will buy a higher quality movement, but one could argue that the design and detail of the SJE095 are more ornate, justifying the closeness in price.
Besides overall price, here are a few things to consider.
Brand Recognition
With Grand Seiko being a more well-established brand in recent times, the GS brand definitely gets the nod here. While King Seiko watches are still high quality, it is more of a modern reinterpretation of a dormant Seiko sub-brand.
Seiko watch enthusiasts will be familiar with the King Seiko brand, but the general public will be less likely to know the King Seiko brand, let alone Grand Seiko. If brand recognition is important and you are considering these two brands, go with Grand Seiko.
Model Variety
With modern King Seiko being a relatively new offering by Seiko, the Grand Seiko catalog currently offers greater variety. With varying styles (dress, casual, sport, GMTs, dive watches, chronographs, ladies’ pieces, etc.), Grand Seiko likely has a watch that will appease almost any potential buyer.
King Seiko’s offerings, while very attractive, are currently very limited. I hope King Seiko continues to flourish and expand its catalog. Even then, I can imagine that they continue to offer watches in a similar style, whereas Grand Seiko has managed to venture into more diverse model ranges.
Build Quality & Finishing
Both product families are manufactured by Seiko and are at the higher end of the product lineup. That means that they will be of high quality and will likely last generations with proper care.
King Seiko’s biggest value proposition is their level of case and bracelet finishing. While not quite on the level of Grand Seiko, they definitely punch above their price, competing with other brands that cost multiple times more than King Seiko’s retail price.
Where Grand Seiko is much better, and it is reflected in the prices, is their level of finishing overall. The hands, dials, and indices are expertly mirror-polished. The case edges are crisp, with contrasting sections beautifully executed. Additionally, movement decoration is done to a high standard, again competing beyond their typical price range.
Movements
As already mentioned, the King Seiko line of products currently uses 6R and 6L movements. While entirely capable and reliable, they are well-made and decently finished mass market movements. Durable, accurate, and reliable, they will undoubtedly get the job done.
Grand Seiko movements, however, are very well decorated and finished. They are still designed to be incredibly reliable and accurate, and they also are beautiful to look at. Even their quartz movements are beautifully finished and designed to be fully serviceable by a watchmaker. Regardless of the timepiece’s price, Grand Seiko delivers an expertly finished movement.
Pricing & Availability
This might be a point of consideration that is less straightforward than the other factors potential buyers usually look at. King Seiko is priced at roughly half of Grand Seiko’s mechanical offerings but fairly close to their entry-level quartz offerings. On price alone, that can be a difficult decision to make.
Availability may make the decision easier though. Seiko corporate has taken large steps towards making Grand Seiko widely available as a global luxury brand in recent years. Because of that, Grand Seiko is available in almost every large metropolitan area around the world, making them available to purchase in most markets.
King Seiko, on the other hand, is still not as widely distributed as Grand Seiko. In the United States, a King Seiko purchase, especially in person, takes some searching and effort. The lack of convenience may be a turn-off for some, but the hunt and the need to be “in-the-know” may make the decision easy for other collectors.
Resale Value
Because of the leaps and bounds Grand Seiko has made as a brand toward global notoriety, resale value has solidified. Still, Grand Seiko does not retain its value as well as other blue-chip brands.
An avid collector base for vintage King Seiko definitely aids the brand, but the value of modern King Seiko pieces still varies widely. Neither watch will be worth zero, and careful research and patience will aid in ensuring one gets a good deal. If turning a profit is the goal for either brand, it is best to look elsewhere.
King Seiko vs Grand Seiko: Best Models Comparison
Below are a few comparisons of similar aesthetic models between the two brands. The price differences between the King Seiko and Grand Seiko pieces shown here are quite large, but a closer look at the below models will hopefully assist in deciding which is the best for you.
King Seiko SPB279 vs Grand Seiko SBGA211
The SPB279 is part of the collection that relaunched the King Seiko brand. Measuring 37mm wide, 12.1mm thick, 43.6mm lug to lug, and with a 19mm lug width, the dimensions are wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes and preferable for those who prefer smaller watches.
Inside is the 6R31 movement, which is rated to -15/+25 seconds a day, with 24 jewels and a 70-hour power reserve. The silver dial with a textured 12 o’clock marker is covered with a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The case is rated to 100 meters of water resistance. The SPB279 retails for 1700 USD.
The SBGA211, also known as “The Snowflake”, has become a signature model for Grand Seiko. The 41mm wide high-intensity titanium case measures 49mm lug to lug, 12.5mm thick, and has 20mm lugs.
The real star of the show is the white textured dial, reminiscent of the snow covered mountains outside the Grand Seiko studio in Nagano, Japan. The sapphire display caseback shows off the 9R65 spring drive movement, which is rated to +/- 1 second per day and has a 72-hour power reserve. The SBGA211 retails for 6,200 USD.
King Seiko SPB279
Grand Seiko SBGA211
Case Size
37mm
41mm
Materials
Stainless Steel
Titanium
Water Resistance
100m
100m
Movement
Automatic, 6R31
Spring Drive, 9R65
Strap
Stainless Steel Bracelet
Titanium Bracelet
Additional Features
Textured 12 o’clock hour marker.
Power reserve indicator, smooth seconds sweep.
MSRP
$1,700
$6,200
King Seiko SJE087 vs Grand Seiko SBGW295
The SJE087 is King Seiko’s modern recreation of the original KSK model introduced in 1961. Enlarged to more modern dimensions, the 38.1mm wide case measures 44.7mm lug to lug and 11.4mm thick. With these dimensions, the case will still be very wearable while having a more modern presence than the original KSK. Inside is the 6L35 movement, with a 45-hour power reserve and date function.
The stainless steel case is 50 meters water resistant, which is enough for most daily activities. The watch comes with a premium brown crocodile strap. The champagne dial has gold indices and is covered by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The SJE087 retails for $3,300.
The SBGW295G is similar to the SJE087 in that it is a modern recreation of the first Grand Seiko watch from 1960. Part of Seiko’s 110th watchmaking anniversary, this premium model has a titanium case and hands and indices made of pure gold on top of an “Urushi” black lacquer dial.
Utilizing the manually wound 9S64 movement, it has a 72-hour power reserve and is rated to +5/-3 seconds per day. Measuring 38mm wide, 45.7mm lug to lug, and 10.9mm thick, the dimensions are similar to the SJE087. Rated to only nominal water resistance, this is a true, albeit modern, dress watch. The SBGW295G retails for 13,800 USD.
King Seiko SJE087
Grand Seiko SBGW295G
Case Size
38.1mm
38mm
Materials
Stainless Steel
Titanium
Water Resistance
50m
Splash Resistant
Movement
Automatic 6L35
Manual 9S64
Strap
Crocodile
Textile/Leather
Additional Features (1-2 unique features for each watch)
Date feature, special case back
Solid gold hands and indices.
MSRP
$3,300
$13,800
King Seiko SPB365 vs Grand Seiko SLGA021
The King Seiko SPB365 is King Seiko’s special edition for the 110th anniversary of Seiko watchmaking. Utilizing the same case shape and movement as the SPB279, the SPB365 has a dial that is inspired by the turtle shells of the turtles native to Kameido (the birthplace of King Seiko). In addition to the steel bracelet, a sustainable calf leather strap is also included. The special dial carries a small premium, with the SPB365 retailing at 1800 USD.
SLGA021 is part of Grand Seiko’s newer Evolution 9 collection. Featuring a bolder and modern case and bracelet design, the Evolution 9 watches feel slightly more sporty than previous similarly-styled Grand Seiko watches. The main feature of the SLGA021 is the textured blue dial, designed to recall the waves of Lake Suwa.
Inside is the 9RA2 Spring Drive movement, which has a 5-day power reserve, power reserve indicator, and date functions and is rated to +/- 0.5 seconds a day. The 40mm wide stainless steel case measures 47.9mm lug to lug and 11.8mm thick, with a 22mm lug spacing. With 100 meters of water resistance, the SLGA021 will withstand daily wear and light aquatic adventures with ease. The SLGA021 retails for $9,100.
King Seiko SPB365
Grand Seiko SLGA021
Case Size
37mm
40mm
Materials
Stainless Steel
Stainless Steel
Water Resistance
100m
100m
Movement
Automatic 6R31
Spring Drive 9RA2
Strap
Stainless Steel
Stainless Steel
Additional Features (1-2 unique features for each watch)
Special limited edition, 1800 pieces. Special dial, additional strap.
Textured blue dial, 5-day power reserve.
MSRP
$1,800
$9,100
Conclusion
While the models featured here are similar aesthetically, the price difference between them, I think, is the ultimate purchasing determination. If you have the budget for either, the deciding factor will ultimately be down to specifications and features.
If you want the best movement, case, and dial finishing Seiko Corporation has to offer, then it will be without a doubt, Grand Seiko. If you prefer a slightly smaller case, then King Seiko may be the way to go, as their case dimensions are usually slightly smaller than Grand Seiko’s.
For me personally, there are instances that I would pick the King Seiko over the Grand Seiko because of case size and dial options. In other instances, it is a no-brainer, as Grand Seiko does offer superior quality, with the associated costs.
With the original intention of King Seiko being between the regular Seiko line and Grand Seiko, I think they have succeeded in that, and it is priced appropriately. Both offer collectors a great deal to appreciate and a watch they can enjoy for many years to come.
Watch collecting can be very exciting when first getting involved. Whether it is the notion that a great timepiece will boost your self-esteem and motivation to move upward in life, a fascination with mechanical engineering, and/or an interest in industrial design, there is a large amount of knowledge to gain and a seemingly endless supply of new products to keep one’s interest.
After some time, and depending on one’s inclinations, you may find yourself wanting something else. Do you find yourself thinking a product is close to perfect except for one or two aspects? Has a brand created combinations of products that are not quite what you want?
Are you someone inclined towards tinkering with objects in an attempt to improve them or simply make them more unique? If the answer is yes to any of those (or all), watch modding may be for you.
What is Watch Modding?
Watch modding entails taking an existing watch and other parts, whether aftermarket or sourced from the original manufacturer (OEM), and putting them together to create a unique combination.
Swapping straps and bracelets could be considered a straightforward and low-risk modification, but watch modding usually entails more drastic alterations, even if they are as simple as swapping a strap.
Easy modifications include swapping bezels and bezel inserts and changing cases on G-Shocks. Watch modding also includes switching hands, dials, and case parts to the point that modders often assemble complete watches from existing components.
While the line between building a watch and modding a watch may get blurry at times, if one is designing new parts for a timepiece that they want to create, then I would say you have entered product design and manufacturing and are no longer simply modding a watch.
Best Watches to Mod
While some suppliers make parts to modify high-end watches, it is best to leave those to experienced modders, watchmakers, and those with a stomach strong enough to endure a mistake should something go wrong. For those getting started and less than iron stomachs, there are plenty of options for modifying watches.
G-Shocks are definitely some of the easiest and best watches to mod. With many retailers providing watch modding parts to swap cases and straps, it is possible to create many unique looks with very simple tools, often supplied with these watch mod kits.
Additionally, to change a case and strap on a G-Shock, you never have to take the module apart, meaning all its water resistance remains intact. There are dial and screen swaps that can be done, but those are slightly more advanced.
The next best entry point into watch modding is Seiko watch mods. The most popular is the SKX line, but with the discontinuation of the ISO-Certified SKX models, other options have come up. The new Seiko 5 line is a popular option, as are other affordable Seiko dive watches.
Additionally, companies make aftermarket watch modding parts and supply genuine Seiko movements that make assembling a unique watch possible. Want a 38mm SKX-style GMT with a black and gold case? It is possible with aftermarket parts. This is truly a space to let creativity run wild.
If cost is no object, it is possible to mod Swiss luxury watches. If your wallet and nerves can stomach it, there are a myriad of aftermarket dials, bezels, and hands for major Swiss brands. Anything that is not reversible will likely hurt the resale value, but if you must have the most unique watch in the room, this may be the way to go.
How to Mod Your Watch
If you are convinced at this rate that modding watches is for you, here are some ways to get started:
Pay Someone Else
If you want a unique watch but do not have the time or patience to do it yourself, numerous professional watch modders will create your idea for a fee. A stroll through watch modding communities online will reveal other watch modders who will happily create a custom Seiko for you.
There are others for high-end Swiss brands, but they feel more akin to brands on their own than modifiers considering the costs associated with those timepieces. That being said, if watch modding appeals to you, paying someone else is likely out of the question.
Gather The Right Tools
After you have decided that modding is an endeavor you wish to pursue, picking up some essential watchmaking tools would be the next step. Plenty of affordable watch mod kits available from Amazon and eBay are enough to remove case backs and bezels. Looking for one with a small air blower pump will be beneficial should you want to swap dials and hands.
With that, should you wish to get involved with changing dials and hands, you will want to pick up a movement holder, dial holder/pad, and hand removal tool. There are additional covers to protect the dial from scratches while removing the hands. While not required, many have found purchasing a watch bench mat very helpful.
If you want to swap crystals (for example, changing a watch with a mineral crystal to a sapphire one), you will need a watch crystal press. If possible, look for a press that allows for uniform pressure on the crystal, and avoid those that use a lever to press the crystal into place.
A cleaning putty is viewed as a requirement by many. It will be extremely useful in cleaning up any excess oil, along with pesky dust and fingerprint marks.
Parts You Can Modify
There are tons of watch modding parts available, each with its own difficulty and risk. Below are some of the most common watch modifications based on their difficulty level:
Bracelet and Strap
The easiest part of a watch to modify, as all you need is a strap-changing tool to release the spring bar from the case. Changing the strap/bracelet will alter the look and wearing experience of a watch.
With many suppliers offering straps and bracelets that are much higher quality than the original offerings on many Seikos and G-Shocks, upgraded straps and bracelets are viewed as a necessary first step by many watch modders.
Bezel
Changing rotating bezels can be quite simple, as the only tools required are a bezel removal tool and something to press the new bezel in place.
The increased difficulty comes from making sure the bezel insert is aligned (should you purchase a bezel and insert separately) and the bezel spring is correctly installed. With some careful reading and double-checking, swapping bezels should be reasonably simple.
Caseback
Did your watch come with a closed caseback, but you wish it had a display caseback? Many part suppliers provide aftermarket casebacks with mineral and sapphire crystals. A caseback removal tool that works with your watch (some require special tools) is all that is needed.
Care is required to ensure dust and debris do not get into the watch during this process, as it can cause damage to the movement and prevent it from working correctly. Additionally, make sure any necessary gaskets are in place to ensure proper water resistance.
Case, Crystal, and Crown
Should you wish for a different style of case, many mod suppliers offer cases that fit bracelets designed for specific models but in different shapes and finishes.
Ranging from homages to famous watch designs and various PVD finishes, a new case will drastically change the look of a watch. It requires removing all other watch modding parts (caseback, crown/stem, movement, and dial), so it can be a bit more involved.
Changing the crystal is similar in difficulty, as it also requires the removal of all other parts. Additionally, if you want to change the case, you will most likely have to install a new crystal. Some suppliers do offer cases with crystals already installed.
Changing the crown is slightly more simple but still requires the removal of the caseback, along with engaging with the movement to release the winding stem from the movement.
Again, similar to the case back, there are gaskets in place for the crystal and crown. These gaskets must be lubricated and installed to ensure your watch has the proper water resistance.
Dial, Hands, and Movement
To change the dial, you will have to remove the caseback, winding crown and stem, and movement from the watch. Once you remove the movement and dial as a single unit, you must remove the hands and then the dial. Considering the multiple steps and risks of damaging parts, extra care and attention should be paid to these modifications.
This process will also require several special tools not always found in a simple watch mod kit. As mentioned earlier, dial protectors can be purchased to help ensure your modifications are a success.
Once the dial is removed, securing the dial to the movement will require a small amount of carefully applied adhesive and aligning the dial feet to the correct points on the dial. For popular Seiko watch mods, there are specific dials for specific movements.
Some suppliers make dials with multiple sets of dial feet, meaning the end user needs to remove the excess dial feet for their specific use case. While the dial is removed, this is also an opportune time to change a date wheel, should that be desired.
If you would like to perform a movement swap, assuming all of the parts are compatible, the same removal and dial application steps are involved. With affordable dual-time movements now available, this is currently a very popular modification.
Again, there are specific dials for specific movements; however, some are easily modified to work with the newer affordable GMT movements that have come to market recently.
Where to Purchase Watch Modding Parts
If you now have ideas of the watch you want to create, here are some other websites with watch modding parts and resources to assist in your watch modding journey and ensure that it is a success.
Additionally, each website has its own unique offerings. Assuming you pick for the same model/movement (i.e. NH35 and SKX007), parts for the same model and movement should be interchangeable, so you can pick and choose from various dealers to create your ideal watch.
Namoki
Namoki is truly a one-stop shop for watch modding parts, with a plethora of options, including complete watch mod kits that give you everything you need to begin your watch modding journey.
Additionally, they have numerous resources to assist with any questions you may have. Their kits may be an ideal place to start, but they offer the ability for you to assemble your own custom watch from their catalog of parts and tools.
Lucius Atelier
Lucius Atelier is very similar to Namoki in terms of watch modding parts but with slightly different offerings and more premium options such as meteorite and gemstone dials. They also offer a customization service, allowing you to pick your desired parts, and their watch modders will assemble them for you.
Crystal Times/ Seiko Mods
The name of the website depends on your geographic location, but both offer the same extensive catalog of parts. Additionally, they have a configurator on their website if you would like to get an idea of what your finished watch will look like once it is assembled. As the name suggests, Seiko Mods is also one of the top options if you want to create the best and most unique Seiko watch mods.
DLW Watches
With some distinctive dial and hand choices, and an easy way to order custom configurations, DLW Watches is a great place to look for Seiko watch modding parts, as well as aftermarket parts for Orient watches. Their handcrafted dial series will surely elevate the look of your project.
Watch & Style
Watch & Style’s standout offering is a large selection of watch modding parts for the SKX013. Should you be looking for options for cases, bezels, and crowns for your perfect SKX013 mod, Watch & Style is a good place to look. Additionally, they offer a myriad of watch modding parts for other popular Seiko models.
Conclusion
Watch collecting can be a very in-depth and overwhelming hobby to engage with, especially with discussions often centering on fluctuating values and perceived hierarchies of brands.
For those looking for an escape from that, many turn to watch modding. While it can be equally as overwhelming and in-depth, the community surrounding modding is typically more welcoming and supportive.
Additionally, it offers a way to engage with the watch-collecting hobby that is much more affordable (assuming one is sticking with affordable watches) and creates something unique instead of simply buying a watch from a retailer. Modding offers an opportunity to have a better understanding of how watches are made and function and to create a form of self-expression in the process.
Rolex is the most well-known luxury watch brand in the world. Selling well over a million units a year, ranked number one in Swiss watch exports by overall revenue, and ranked as the number one most reputable company by RepTrak 2016 through 2019, and again in 2022, they have built a seemingly bulletproof reputation.
While it is a reputation the rest of the watch industry is surely envious of, what is seemingly more impressive is that they have managed to build this reputation in its relatively short history. A large part of their storied history and success depends on one model, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust.
About the Rolex Datejust
With the many advancements of modern watchmaking, it is easy to take the Datejust for granted. In its most famous form, the Datejust is a 36mm wide steel case watch with either a smooth steel or fluted gold bezel and a steel bracelet or two-tone steel and gold bracelet. The only functions are the time, running seconds, and the date.
Aside from the prestigious brand, little sets it apart from more common and attainable watches. However, if it were not for Rolex producing the Datejust, the modern concept of a timepiece that was functional, durable, and fashionable (the “go anywhere, do anything” watch) would likely not exist.
Now, every brand has an equivalent timepiece. While other brands have made watches similar in function to the Datejust, Rolex managed to produce both quality, volume, and effective advertising to allow it to be at the forefront of the public’s mind when it comes to a luxury watch suitable for daily wear.
History of the Rolex Datejust
Building on their prior innovation of producing one of the earliest self-winding water-resistant watches, titled the Oyster Perpetual, Rolex introduced the Datejust in 1945. The Datejust was the first automatic watch to have a date that changed autonomously at midnight. To become the icon we know today, Rolex added the magnifying cyclops to the model in 1953.
In 1957, a ladies’ model was introduced. Since then, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust has been a mainstay in the Rolex catalog. While the sport-oriented models (referred to currently as the Professional Line by Rolex) get the bulk of attention from enthusiasts, the classic models like the Datejust are the most popular overall in terms of sales.
What Makes a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Often imitated and with numerous variations, it is impressive how Rolex has managed to make the Datejust an easily identifiable icon distinguishable from imitators, regardless of variations and updates over the years.
The Oyster Case
While easy to take for granted, the Oyster case for the Classic models has a curved and polished case side. The case design wears more like a cushion case than a traditional round case, as the lugs are large and extend from the case side down to the bracelet, giving the watch an integrated bracelet look with the metal bracelet options while using traditional lugs and spring bars.
It is worth noting that the spring bar holes are drilled quite close to the case, making some aftermarket straps difficult to fit. The most popular material option has been stainless steel, but the Datejust was originally released in gold. Throughout the years, Rolex has offered the watch in steel, two-tone steel, and gold, and a variety of gold options. Ladies Datejust watches have also been offered in platinum.
Bracelet Options
Arguably the most iconic bracelet option for the Rolex Datejust is the Jubilee bracelet. Released as part of Rolex’s jubilee celebration (along with the Datejust), the five-link design with two larger outer links and 3 small inner links, making the bracelet robust yet dressy.
The center links have always been polished throughout the bracelet’s history, with the outer links being brushed. Originally offered only in solid gold, the Jubilee bracelet has been offered in steel, two-tone, and gold.
The other metal bracelet option for the Datejust and equally iconic for Rolex is the Oyster bracelet. A three-link design with three larger sections, this is the bracelet design that is most commonly associated with the Professional models. Preferred by some collectors for its more substantial presence, the Oyster bracelet is more casual/sporting in its appearance.
On more contemporary precious metal references, there have been leather strap options, and references with the President style bracelet, mainly the smaller 31mm and 27mm models. The leather strap options have a metal end-link that the strap attaches to, further emphasizing the modern integrated look.
The most outlandish option is a diamond set rubber strap on the 116189BBR. If you love zebra print, this model is worth a look.
Bezel Options
When it comes to the Classic line of Rolex watches, part of the iconic look is the fluted bezel.
The fluted bezel is made out of gold, and the polished bezel has alternating raised and lowered sections that reflect well in a variety of light, making the watches very eye-catching. Most commonly associated with the two-tone steel and yellow gold models are steel watches with white gold fluted bezels, and more contemporary references have offered steel and rose gold.
The bracelet will always match the bezel, with the steel and white gold references having steel bracelets. Entirely precious metal references have been offered with both fluted and smooth bezels.
The smooth bezel is another popular option, usually seen on all steel references, but has been offered in the two-tone and precious metal references as well. If the fluted bezel is the most jewelry oriented and formal, the smooth bezel is more subdued.
On older references, the bezel is relatively flat, with it sloping upwards toward the crystal from the case. Modern 6-digit references have bezels that are more domed than flat, which give a more substantial and contemporary look to the timepiece.
Additionally, there are engine-turned bezels. Made out of steel, these watches have either a fine groove texture or a wider, less polished texture similar to the fluted bezel. These models offer a way to add interest to the watch without the added cost.
Particularly of note of the metal bezel options, there are the Turn-O-Graph models. Made with precious metal bezels, these models have a bi-directional rotating bezel that can be used to time events. Initially intended for pilots, these watches offer a slightly more sporty take on the Datejust that still keeps the sartorial flexibility associated with the model.
Finally, on the jewelry-oriented pieces, there is the option of a diamond set bezel, which is always set in the corresponding precious metal on the watch.
Dial Variety
Where prospective Datejust owners are really spoiled for choice is in regards to dial options. Over the years, there have been a wide variety of dial options with varying textures, including honeycomb in some vintage models, vertical striping, sunbursts, matte, glossy, and sun-ray, to name a handful.
More contemporary jewelry-oriented models have what Rolex calls the “Jubilee Dial,” which has a Rolex motif printed on the dial and some diamond settings on the dial. Speaking of gemstones, there are many iterations ranging from diamond hour markers to full pavé dials covered in diamonds. There are also a number of variations of mother-of-pearl dials.
Besides diamond-set indices, there are numerous iterations for indices, including stick indices, Roman numerals, Arabic numerals, and sometimes combinations of different styles. The only way collectors may feel some limitation is in regard to dial colors.
Recent collections have included green dials with palm leaf motifs, and there have been some that have had more subtle pink and salmon hues. Most of the history of the Datejust has consisted of conventional dial colors; black, silver, white, and blue.
These more conservative dial tones speak to the intended purpose of the watch, the ability to go anywhere and do anything and look the part while doing it. A Datejust worn in confidence will look great with a bathing suit and a boardroom suit.
Should a bold dial be desired, the textured dials and a few bolder colors are available. Full precious metal Datejust watches have some more outlandish dial offerings. Additionally, popular aftermarket customization is to have boldly colored dials. While not always desired by hardcore collectors, a custom dial will make your Datejust stand out.
Rolex Datejust Reference Numbers
With Datejust’s long history, there have been numerous reference numbers associated with the model. For the sake of this article, we will give attention to the 36mm models.
Broadly speaking, there are 4-digit, 5-digit, and 6-digit references, each referring to a general period of production. 4-digit references were produced before the late-1970s. 5-digit references were produced from the late 1970s to 1999, and finally 6-digit references began in the year 2000.
The first Datejust 36 reference numbers start with 6XXX, followed by 16XX. The five digit reference number Datejust watches start with 162XX. The six digit references start with 1162XX, and the most modern Datejusts start with 1262XX. An early Datejust example would be the 6304, and then the generations following are the 1601 and 1603.
After the four-digit references, the last two digits were codified to describe other aspects of the watch. The second to last number dealt with the bezel style, with 0 meaning smooth, 1 meaning engine-turned, 3 meaning fluted, and 6 referring to the Turn-O-Graph models.
The last digit refers to the material of the watch, with 0 corresponding to steel, 1 referring to two-tone steel and Everose gold, 3 referring to steel and yellow gold, 4 referring to steel and white gold, 5 being solid 18k Everose gold, 6 being platinum, 8 referring to 18k yellow gold, and 9 referring to 18k white gold.
To give an example, a six-digit two-tone Everrose and steel Turn-O-Graph would have the reference number 116261.
Current Rolex Datejust Pricing
With limited availability for Rolex watches across the board causing historically high prices, even accounting for some recent adjustments as of Summer of 2023, Datejusts are not spared from this. Still widely popular compared to the Professional models, the Datejust does not get the same amount of media attention, and their large overall production numbers mean that they are more readily available on the second-hand market.
Again, focusing on the 36mm models, a vintage steel 1603 can be found as low as around 3000$, but one in better condition, and maybe some original paperwork would be closer to 4000$. Two-tone four-digit references start at around 3600$, with better examples starting again at around 4000$. Solid gold examples on a strap can be found for about 6400$, but jump to over 10,000$ for examples with a solid gold bracelet.
Early five-digit references start around 4000$, again rising depending on condition and materials. Models with a sapphire crystal (starting in the late 1980s/early 1990s) start at around 5000$. As of July 2023, a five-digit Datejust tops out at approximately 55,000$ for a full gold case and bracelet example with diamonds on the dial from the factory.
The six-digit references top out at around 65,000$ for the 116189BBR already mentioned. A full gold 116208 can be had for about 28,000$. Two-tone 116XXX references, including white gold bezeled models, seem to stay between 10,000 and 16,000$ depending on the condition and box and papers. Full steel models start at around 7500$.
The most modern 126XXX models start at around $7500 on the secondary market, and that includes box and papers. The most expensive two-tone models with diamond bezels and dials are currently trading for around 36,000$. As part of the current collection posted on the Rolex website, there are no full precious metal models being offered.
As with almost any Rolex currently, more desirable models and configurations will carry a premium compared to their original retail price and/or less desirable iterations. Regarding vintage models, condition and documentation play a big role. If you are looking to achieve the lowest price possible, a common dial configuration in worn but good condition will be a good and safe option.
With well-worn pieces, it is best to do a good amount of research and pay accordingly if they interest you. The older a watch gets, the less important having the original box and papers is. It would be very cool if a 6305 could be found with all of the original boxes and paperwork, but expect to pay a corresponding premium for that watch.
Who Is the Datejust for?
The versatility of the Datejust is its greatest selling point. The combination of good looks and durability makes it suitable for almost every occasion a normal person will encounter. While Rolex watches are seen as status symbols of success and achievement, the Datejust is oddly as close to the watch for everyman as a Rolex will get. With the wide variety of case, dial, bezel, and bracelet options, there is likely a Datejust that will interest almost every collector.
If the Datejust is just too clichéd for you, there is also the Oysterquartz Datejust. More of an enthusiast favorite and definite oddity, these overbuilt quartz watches are nothing to look down at, as an Oysterquartz Datejust accompanied Reinhold Messner on his 1978 climb of Mt. Everest without oxygen.
Conclusion
While not entirely comprehensive, this guide should equip readers with enough information to confidently enter the world of Rolex Datejust watches. The many iterations over the decades that this model has been in production means that there is likely a model for everyone. There are many more complicated, robust, and unique watches out there, but a Rolex Datejust is often the only watch one needs.
Quartz watches almost put mechanical watches out of business during the late 1960s and early ’70s. While originally priced as premium products competing with mechanical watches, they quickly became cheaper and easier to mass produce. They were also much more reliable, durable, and accurate than mechanical watches, which was a priority to most buyers as timepieces still had the primary function of telling the time during this period.
Quartz watches only had one practical shortcoming compared to mechanical watches: the battery needed to be replaced. Early quartz watches were not as efficient as the ones we have today, often requiring a battery replacement every six months, frequent enough to be problematic when a mechanical watch could easily go a few years without service.
Additionally, early and high-end quartz movements were built to be serviceable, in addition to the frequent battery changes. That meant while they were more robust, reliable, and accurate, there was a period of time when quartz watches would require more frequent trips to the local watchmaker.
Seiko sought to find a solution to this. What if a quartz watch had a battery that didn’t need to be replaced? Especially if the watch still had to be serviced? While solar-powered watches introduced in the 1970s offered a relatively worry-free wearing experience, the power cell would need to be replaced every 10 years. Seiko wanted to focus on producing a watch with serviceable parts instead of replaceable ones.
The History Seiko Kinetic Watches
With the goal of reducing the environmental impact of mass-produced quartz watches, Seiko began developing movements that could be wound like a traditional mechanical watch but utilized electricity, providing the reliability and accuracy of quartz watches. Seiko began the development of a quartz movement that did not rely on a conventional battery in 1983.
The first of these watches that were commercially available was the SBAD001 and SBAD003. Released in late 1986, these watches were the first of their kind. Inside of these was the 8T23 movement, a movement where the generator for the capacitor was hand-wound.
In addition to telling the time, these two references had day and date displays, along with a full-charge indicator light at six o’clock. Upon full charge, the movement had 72 hours of power reserve; however, it took three minutes of continuous winding to reach a full charge.
The relatively short battery life compared to the amount of winding required made this watch a relative commercial flop, and Seiko discontinued the watch after only one year.
In January 1988, Seiko released the first “AGS” quartz watch, which stood for “Automatic Generating System”. Instead of being manually wound, a rotor similar to those found on automatic mechanical watches powered the generator.
These watches were a marked improvement over the manually wound caliber. Seiko succeeded in making a more ecologically minded quartz-regulated movement and earned Germany’s Blue Angel Mark for sustainable products.
Seiko renamed the “AGS” line to “Kinetic” in 1997. Seiko also released a variety of styles and complications, including the first AGS diver in 1992, the AGS “Flightmaster,” which included a GMT, and the first Kinetic chronograph in 2000.
In 1999, Seiko introduced a pause feature that would internally track the time while pausing the hands when not in use to save battery life. When the watch was worn again, the movement would correct the hands to the present time. Many watches in the Kinetic line have display casebacks, allowing the owner to view the movement, showing off the rotor that gave power to the movement.
As of 2021, it appears that Seiko has begun to phase out the Kinetic line, with no new models being introduced and limited availability. Entirely speculation, but this is likely because of the developments in solar technology, along with the development of higher-end quartz calibers that are more serviceable than those produced in the 1970s and 80s.
How Seiko Kinetic Watches Work
Seiko’s Kinetic movements are fairly unique in that they are “wound” similar to a mechanical watch. When “winding” the watch, the turn of the crown or the movement rotor turns a small electrical generator that charges a capacitor.
The movement is then run off of the capacitor, and the quartz movement runs the same as any other quartz movement. Because the capacitor is able to be recharged, battery replacements are no longer necessary.
While the first watch with this technology was hand-wound, Seiko later released a movement with automatic winding only and then one with both manual and automatic winding. With the automatic rotor, the rotor turns a gear train, multiplying the speed of the rotor spinning by one hundred times, creating a current that then charges the capacitor, which powers the circuits for the analog time display.
While the first watches to use this technology could only run for a few days, the technology improved, and modern Seiko Kinetic watches can run for up to six months on a full charge.
They also started as simple movements, only displaying the time, day and date, but later progressed to perpetual calendars, chronographs, and gmt movements. Similar to the rest of Seiko’s catalog, the brand released a multitude of models, ranging from quite dressy and formal to sporty and avant-garde.
Other Seiko Collections
While there has been some overlap between Seiko Kinetic watches and their other lines, currently, there are no Kinetic-powered watches in the current catalog. Lines that are part of the main Seiko line-up currently are Seiko 5, Prospex, Presage, and Astron.
The Seiko 5 focuses on Seiko’s entry-level offerings. Based on the five attributes of offering water resistance, an automatic movement, day and date function, a recessed crown at four o’clock, and a case and crown built for durability.
While some watches have strayed from the four o’clock crown and day and date function, timepieces within this collection continue to offer a great deal of value for beginning collectors or those looking for an affordable piece to add to their collection.
The Prospex range focuses on watches purpose-built for sporting activities. The most famous are the dive watches in the range, ranging from affordable quartz models to higher-end Spring Drive driven pieces; they are all built to withstand the trials of underwater adventures. Additionally, there are both automatic and quartz chronographs and GMT models.
Seiko’s Presage line is their more formal and “go-anywhere-do-anything” oriented model. Still offering a variety of complications, including GMTs, chronographs, power reserve indicators, and simple time and date models, these models are great options should you need something more dress-oriented or simply what a more simple and versatile timepiece.
The Seiko Astron collection is where Seiko is really pushing its quartz technology. Models in this collection are radio/satellite controlled, meaning they receive an input signal to synchronize the time, ensuring accurate time telling. Various models include perpetual calendars, world time functions, chronographs, and alarms.
While initially quite large, Seiko has been working on making them more wearable in recent years, making them ideal for world travelers or watch enthusiasts interested in the most cutting-edge time-telling technology. Additionally, if you are obsessed with accuracy, these watches are worth looking at.
12 Seiko Kinetic Watches To Know
While far from a comprehensive list, the watches listed below feature highlights from Seiko’s Kinetic powered watches.
Seiko Kinetic Dive Watch SKA371
This black-dialed dive watch features Seiko’s 5M62 kinetic-powered quartz movement. It features a 6-month power reserve, with a pusher at 2 o’clock that allows you to check the power reserve. The watch additionally features a date at 3 o’clock, is rated to +/- 15 seconds a month, has 6 jewels, and is 4.3mm thick.
The stainless steel case of the SKA371 measures 42.5mm wide, 14mm thick, 47mm lug-to-lug, and has a 20mm lug width. The black unidirectional bezel has a lume pip at 12 o’clock, and the dial is covered by a Hardlex crystal.
The watch comes with a stainless steel bracelet. The SKA371 has been discontinued, but the last published list price was 550 USD. Models continue to be available on the second hand market.
Seiko Kinetic Prospex SUN023 GMT
Part of the Prospex collection, this tool-focused diver features a 47.5mm wide PVD-coated stainless steel case that is 15mm thick, has 24mm lugs, and measures 51mm lug-to-lug. The black dial features plenty of lume and bright orange and blue accents.
The unidirectional dive bezel also features orange numerals, tying in with the minute hand. The blue 24-hour indications coordinate with the 24-hour hand, making reading both elapsed time and the second time zone a breeze.
Inside is the 5M85 movement. Similar to the 5M62 in dimensions and accuracy, it also features six months of power reserve and a power reserve indication feature by pushing the 2 o’clock pusher. The movement allows for independent setting of both the main hour hand (which is used to also adjust the date) and the 24-hour hand is set with the main hands.
The local hand jumps while maintaining the timekeeping function, preventing the need to reset the watch every time the owner jumps timezones. The case is water resistant to 200 meters and has a sapphire crystal covering the dial. The watch comes with a rubber strap.
While large and featuring a bold color scheme, the SUN023 makes an ideal summer travel watch. At the time of its release, the retail price was 675 USD.
Seiko’s Premier line features bold case designs that manage to make a bold statement while being dressy in appearance. The SNP161 combines a perpetual calendar with a large date display with their Kinetic movement technology. The stainless steel case measures 43mm wide, 12mm thick, 48.4mm lug-to-lug, and has a 22mm wide steel bracelet.
Inside is the 7D56 Kinetic movement, which has a rated accuracy of +/-15 seconds a month, has 16 jewels, and measures 6.1mm thick. There is a power save function, which stops the hands after 24 hours of no movement. The blue dial features textured patterns, sword hands, and baton markers. The last published retail price was 950 USD.
Seiko Kinetic Recraft SKA705
The Seiko Recraft collection focuses on a casual retro-oriented design influenced by Seiko’s back catalog. The SKA705 features a black ion-plated stainless steel case that measures 42mm wide, 12mm thick and has 22mm lugs. The watch comes with a nylon pass-through strap. The case is rated to 100 meters of water resistance.
The black dial features yellow accents, with white-colored lume on the hands and indices. The dial is covered by a Hardlex mineral crystal. Inside is the Seiko 5M82 caliber, with a date at the 4:30 position. This movement features the same power reserve feature by pushing the pusher at 2 o’clock and has a 6-month power reserve. The last published retail price for the Seiko Kinetic Recraft SKA705 was 325 USD.
Seiko Kinetic Premier Perpetual Novak Djokovic Special Edition SNP149P2
Made as a special edition for Seiko ambassador and tennis star Novak Djokovic. Featuring the same case design and movement as the SNP161, the SNP149P2 features a black dial with a striped dial decoration, alternating rose gold batons with Roman numerals, along with rose gold hands and subdials.
The crown is also rose gold plated, tying together the dial elements to the outer case. The watch is attached to a 22mm alligator patterned leather strap with a deployant buckle. The last published retail price for the Seiko SNP149P2 was 800 USD.
Seiko Kinetic Velatura Direct Drive SRH013
Seiko’s Velatura collection was originally intended as Seiko’s sailing-oriented collection. Boasting water resistance, and sporting designs, their water fairing intentions were clear. The SRH013 has a black IP-coated stainless steel case that measures 43mm wide and 13mm thick. Behind the sapphire crystal is a black dial with yellow accents.
The subdial at 4:30 displays the day of the week, with a power reserve at 9 o’clock and the date at six o’clock. The watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance and comes on a rubber strap, backing up the water sport-oriented design. Inside is the Seiko caliber 5D44. The last published retail price was 1395 USD.
Seiko Kinetic Coutura Retrograde SRN066
The Coutura collection consists of sporty designs with integrated straps and bracelets. Intended to be elegant yet bold, watches within this collection are intended to be capable of daily wear while fitting into a variety of situations.
The SRN066 has a 43mm black ion-plated stainless steel case and integrated bracelet, and a rose gold plated bezel. The case measures 12.1mm thick. The black dial with rose gold hands and indices is covered by a Hardlex mineral crystal.
Inside is the Seiko Caliber 5M84, which can be seen through the display caseback. In addition to the time and date, there is a retrograde day display between four and six o’clock and has a 6-month power reserve. The watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance, making it suitable for water activities.
While the Coutura collection is still on Seiko’s websites, the Kinetic movement loaded models seem to be discontinued, with the focus shifted to solar-powered movements. The last published retail price of the SRN066 was 495 USD.
Seiko Kinetic Premier Moonphase SRX015
Another complicated watch from the Premier collection, the SRX015 boasts a moonphase function. The caliber 5D88 displays the time, with a date subdial at three o’clock, a 24-hour indicator and day sub-dial at six o’clock, and a power reserve indicator for the one-month power reserve at nine o’clock. The silver textured dial alternates Roman numerals and stick indices for the hour markers.
The 42.5mm wide steel case is 14mm thick and comes with a 22mm wide steel bracelet. With a sapphire crystal and 100 meters of water resistance, it will be more than capable of daily wear and water activities. When last available, the retail price was 1195 USD.
The Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065 shares the same case and movement as the SUN023 covered earlier in this article. Instead of the black case and bold colors on the dial, the SUN065 is a PADI special edition, sticking with the blue and red color scheme associated with the organization.
PADI stands for the Professional Association of Diving Instructors, an organization founded in 1966 by John Cornin and Ralph Erickson. It is a group dedicated to the training and education of divers, ranging from entry-level courses to specialized skills and certifications. As of 2022, their work has issued 29 million certifications.
The Seiko Prospex SUN065 has a 47.5mm wide stainless steel case that has both brushed and polished surfaces with a blue bezel insert. The blue dial has silver indices filled with lume and red accents coordinating with the 24-hour hand. The pusher at 2 o’clock is coated and colored blue, tying together the bezel and dial with the case. The Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065’s last published MSRP was 750 USD.
Seiko Kinetic Titanium SKA495
While most of the models mentioned have been part of the higher-end Seiko collections, the SKA495 is a more entry-level offering from Seiko, allowing collectors to obtain a Kinetic powered watch and a titanium case and bracelet. The last published MSRP was 450 USD.
The titanium case measures 40mm wide and 12mm thick and comes with an integrated titanium bracelet. Inside is the Seiko Caliber 5M62, offering 6 months of power reserve and a power reserve display function by pressing the crown at two o’clock. The case is water resistant to 100 meters, making it more than suitable for daily wear.
The dark gray dial has gold-colored hands and indices and is covered by a Hardlex crystal. With reasonable dimensions and great specifications, the Seiko SKA495 is a good candidate for a go anywhere, do anything watch.
Seiko Kinetic Sportura SUN015
The Seiko Sportura took its design inspiration from the automotive industry, creating timepieces that were both streamlined and futuristic in appearance.
The SUN015 represents a more restrained representation from the collection, but still quite bold. Measuring 45mm wide, 13mm thick, 51mm lug-to-lug, and coming on a 21mm wide steel bracelet, it will have plenty of presence on the wrist. Inside is the 5M85 movement seen in the other GMT watches mentioned, offering the date and second time zone in addition to displaying the time.
The case is rated to 100 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown, and the black dial with lumed hands and indices is covered by a sapphire crystal. The black bezel is made of ceramic, adding another scratch-resistant material to the front of the watch. When released, the SUN015 had a retail price of 750 USD.
Seiko Kinetic SMY139
Another lower-priced offering from Seiko, the SMY139 is more utilitarian-focused in its design. Featuring a black ion-plated 41mm wide case and 20mm bracelet, and a black dial with large lumed indices and 12, 6, and 9 numerals, the military inspiration is clear.
Measuring 11mm thick, rated to 100 meters of water resistance, and coming with a Hardlex crystal, the tough exterior is svelte enough to stay out of harm’s way while still handling some rough situations.
Inside is the 5M83 caliber, which is the same as the 5M82, but with both the day and date displayed. When originally released, the Seiko Kinetic SMY139 retailed for 380 USD.
Conclusion
Seiko’s pursuit of accuracy, reliability, and sustainability led them to create the AGS system, which would later be renamed Kinetic. These movements provided the accuracy, durability, and convenience of quartz while reducing reliance on disposable batteries and the convenience of an automatic movement, meaning the wearer’s movement would provide power for the watch.
With solar technology improving, the Kinetic movements have been phased out of Seiko’s current collection. For collectors interested in different types of movement technology, adding a Seiko Kinetic or two to the collection can add some diversity and intrigue to the more common battery-powered and mechanical spring-driven movements.
